How to Wax a Chain with SILCA – Strip Chip, Chain Stripper & Wax Pot Guide

Published: 5/17/2025

Tags: SILCA, waxed chain, drivetrain efficiency, cleaners

SILCA wax pot, strip chip, and secret chain blend.

Step 1: Strip the Chain

If you’re prepping a chain that’s been lubed before, I start with a liquid degreaser like Silca Chain Stripper or Oranj Peelz. Soak, shake, rinse, repeat — just make sure everything’s completely degreased before moving on. An old water or gatorade bottle is excellent for this step.

If it’s a brand new chain straight out of the box, I use the Silca Strip Chip to help break down the factory grease — more on that below.

🧼 Grab the Strip Chip →

Step 2: Fire Up the Pot

I use this exact workflow on my T-Type SRAM X0 Transmission chain — no issues with fit, function, or durability so far. Waxed chains run just as smoothly on T-Type drivetrains as any other 12-speed setup.

♻️ For Normal Rewaxing

I set the Silca Wax Pot to 75°C, drop the chain in, let it sit for 10 minutes, then give it a good swirl for 30 seconds before hanging it to dry.

🔥 See the Wax Pot I Use →

🆕 For Brand New Chains (with Strip Chip)

Set the pot to 125°C.
Drop the chain in, agitate for 30 seconds.
Let it sit for 10 minutes.
Agitate again for 30 seconds.
Lower the pot back to 75°C and let it cool for another 10 minutes.
Then hang to dry.

⚠️ This entire process happens off the bike. If your chain is still installed, you’re going to have a bad time.

🧪 Shop Super Secret Hot Wax →

Step 3: Hang & Dry

After waxing, I hang the chain and let it dry for 3–5 minutes — that’s usually all it needs. The finish is clean, quiet, and race-ready.

Freshly waxed chain drying above the Silca Wax Pot — Chain drying above the pot. It’s low mess and super quick.

One thing to watch out for: reinstalling a freshly waxed chain can be tricky.

💡 Pro tip: Thread the chain onto the smallest cog (10T), get the quick link in place, and slowly pedal in that gear. Run the chain through a full shift range once — after that, it’s buttery smooth and ready to ride.

Fully waxed chain in hand before reinstalling — Fully waxed, dry, and ready to reinstall. T-Type approved ✅

🔁 Ongoing Maintenance

I re-wax every three long MTB rides, or after a wet/sloppy ride. I also always run a fresh wax before races.

Clean the chain and bike with Muc-Off, run it through a microfiber cloth, and drop it back in the pot.

I toss the wax after 6 Strip Chips.

💡 Tips & Personal Notes

During Breck Epic, I waxed daily. Felt amazing to start with a perfectly clean drivetrain.
Always carry a chain breaker and extra quick-links.
Don’t wax the quick link! Degrease it, especially if it came with the factory chain. Spares are usually clean and ready to go.

🔧 Quick FAQ

Should I wax the quick link too?

Nope — skip it. Waxing the quick link just makes it harder to install. Degrease it if it came with the factory chain. Individually sold spares are usually clean and wax-ready.

Do I need the Strip Chip?

No — it’s optional. But I use it on new chains with factory grease to speed up the strip-down during the first wax.

How hot should the Wax Pot be?

75°C is the standard temp. For new chains with a Strip Chip, heat it to 125°C, then cool it back down for the final soak.

Can I reuse the wax?

Yes. You can get basically countless uses out of a pot. I replace mine after 6 Strip Chips or when your spidey senses tell you it’s time.

What’s the trick to reinstalling a waxed chain?

The links can be stiff at first. I feed the chain through on the smallest 10T cog, install the quick link, and pedal slowly in that gear. Then I cycle through all the gears once to break the wax seal — smooth sailing after that.